Going through Hell

After deciding to go to Stockholm tonight, I went through Hell trying to find out how to buy a ticket.

Literally.

Look! 😂

The ‘Entrance to Hell’ appears to be a shopping centre…

It turns out there are none to be had.

You can see the train on the timetables but you can’t buy tickets.

Argh.

(And the AirBnB place I was looking at next to the station is taken too. Double Argh.)

Slow down and rush around vs power through and stop??

I have a decision to make.

Problem

I’m on a train on the way south to Trondheim. From there I need to get a train to Oslo and one to Stockholm.

I get in to Trondheim at around half past 10 tonight.

By then, I need to decide whether to

A) power through to Oslo and then Stockholm so I’m back with my bike tomorrow (and before the family it’s staying with thinks I’ve abandoned it).

Or

B) stay the night in Trondheim so I’ve slept and am more awake to rush around the city tomorrow on the way to the station to catch the train to Oslo

and either

i) power through to Stockholm

ii) stay the night in Oslo before heading to Stockholm.


Thoughts

I’m super tired, I could use a bed and a lot of sleep.

..But..

..I’m back in the south. It’s going to be dark(ish) soon so I won’t have to feel ‘guilty’ for not looking at everything (= I can sleep in the train)


I have enough food for a day or so. And I could be in Stockholm before the shops shut tomorrow..


The ‘economical’ approach would probably be to say I’m spending all this money on trains, and travelling all these kms, who knows when (if ever) I might be back, so I might as well stop and see something while I’m here. It adds a couple of nights and a couple of hundred Euro to the pile, but that probably won’t count for much in the grand scheme of things..

On the other hand..

It’s the end of June already. I have 3 months left, 4 if I extend, and I haven’t started cycling yet. 🤭 I used 2 weeks getting myself ready to leave and another 2 getting to North Cape and back. I need to be in Berlin for a couple of days at the end of July and will hang a trip to Edinburgh and York onto one end of that. That’s going to eat another couple of weeks, leaving me with around 10 (or 14) weeks to cycle >2000 km of Swedish coast and catch trains through Finnland including getting back home and getting myself ready/adjusted for ‘Alltag’. And I don’t want to have to rush/stress about time the way I did last summer..


My brain’s frazzled. I’ve been racing round the country for 2 weeks and most of that time I was ‘busy’ looking at and trying to absorb beautiful and amazing landscapes. I haven’t taken any time to catch up to where I am. I’m still ‘processing’ what I’ve seen and done, I still have stories buzzing around my head that I want to write down. I haven’t done more than thought about sorting my pictures out. At some point, the buffer is full and I’m going to explode (or prove H’s joke right 🙈). I could use a couple of days to charge my batteries (by sleeping a lot) and emptying my head so there’s more room for new things.

Realistically, even if I was fully awake, I’m not going to see much of either Trondheim or Oslo by racing through them in a day each. Making an effort to come back to see them in their own right would likely do them more justice..

I’m currently not even doing the lakes justice.. It seems there’s a limit to my enthusiasm 🙈 like in that song: the blonde beauties become dull dutiful pickles. I’m not quite at the pickle point, but there’s definitely a sense of ‘ooh! Another pretty lake’ rather than ‘wow! That’s amazing!’


Writing this ^ has decided the question for me..

I’ll book the trains for tonight and tomorrow, and try to survive being awake or sleeping on the train, so I can spend a day or two vegging on the far side of Stockholm. Somewhere ‘nice’ (and probably mostly people-free) where I can lie in my hammock and write and think and sleep..

Ugh.

The SD card in the phone is full.

That should be fine, I have a stash of new empty cards.

So far so organised.

What I don’t have, at least not with me, is the spikey thing I need to get the SD slot out of my phone to swap the damn things over 😔

I’m pretty sure I looked at one while I was packing (at home).

I don’t remember where (or even if) I packed it..

And the view from the train is pretty and it’s even partially sunny.

(The ‘proper’ camera’s lens is covered in fingerprints (previous owner) and tissue fluff (me)* 🤭😥. H says I should go to a camera shop and let them clean it so I don’t scratch the protective coating, which is all well and good, and theoretically very helpful advice… I just haven’t been past a huge number of camera shops recently 😅)

I really don’t want to spend the journey looking at my phone, sorting and deleting old photos and missing what I want to take new photos of.

Argh.


* Pro tip: don’t carry your camera in your pocket 🙂

I haven’t figured out how to carry it instead yet. I have limited shoulders and hands…

Made it to the TrondheimTrain :)

Featuring shopping, admiring flowers, going 5/6 of the way around the roundabout, finding out that the app doesn’t sell tickets it just tells you about them (and then laughs at you when your storage is too full for another app), playing with the ticket machine and finding out,  after getting yourself and all your luggage onto the train, that you’re in a room the size of a matchbox with a door that only pretends to open into the carriage, leaving you with less than a minute to get yourself and all your luggage back out and into the next carriage…..all while holding your ticket in your teeth and trying not to lose it….

…phew!

The Cathedral in Bodo

The people who thought I must work for the church (!!!) Had said the door was locked..

..but…

..by the time I’d finished putting the tent away and wanted to to see the Cathedral it was open.

🙂


Look at this:

If this isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of the best thing you’ve ever seen in a church, you’ve obviously never slept in a churchyard.x

Isn’t it beautiful?

There’s even a light shining in the distance 😅

Pure awesome 😜

(Yes, the pictures were taken afterwards. Priorities people :))

Isn’t it perfect? The floor was even clean enough for me not to mind putting my luggage down 🙂

And it was the first toilet I’ve ever seen where the water comes out in two waves from the sides. I didn’t want to take a picture of it flushing, and flushing it again for a photo seemed a little excessive, but it was cool 🙂

The actual cathedral was cool too 🙂

Huge entryway

Usually when I walk into churches I first notice the windows..

..in this case the windows are pretty dull and I got caught up in the tapestry rugs first.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a church with rugs on the walls before.

And I didn’t notice the weird lights until sorting this post out.. 🤦‍♀️

I like the kids area too, right at the front of the church.

This looks like a feature not an afterthought 🙂
Pew heating 🙂
Think there’s enough of these to sleep on? 🙂
Fancy door handle outside
And inside. I thought it was a weird ‘a’ (alpha and omega)
but after seeing that every other door had the full circle version, I assume this was cut off to let the door shut properly..

Tent? Tent.

I wanted to sleep in the church (like in Lund) but it’s closed.

Steps? No. Too cold without a sleeping bag, probably too dirty for my sleeping bag (and sleeping on steps looks bad for the church.. maybe? 🙈)

Tent?

Faff, but sleep……

Tent.


No mat.

Not quite true. I did unroll the silver mat

Just sleep.

Sooooo tired….

Goodnight world.

Hutigruten Museum

There was a tiny bit of a push to go to the museum while we were here. It was mentioned in yesterday’s events ahead talk and they made an announcement before we landed (“..if you want to go to the museum, it would be a good idea to buy tickets now so you don’t waste time queueing later..”)

The museum sounds great; ‘they’ have restored an old boat and there’s a lot of ‘Historical Things’ (thanks Andreas :)) – information about the company and its founder and suchlike.

And yet..

It was 22,50€ and we docked for an hour or so, which works out at 45 minutes on land.. so by the time you allow for getting there and back, it seemed to be a bad deal.

I like looking at things without rushing.

The outside was good too, and someone had decorated the landing centre with posters and info.

And there’s going to be a talk on the history in a bit..

Flagwaving

“The boat is about to go under a bridge across a narrow part of the fjorde.. the expedition busses will go over the bridge as we go under it. Can you stand at the front of the ship and wave a Norwegian flag for them?”

Um.. I guess? Sure! (It’s not like I have anything better to do, I wanted to watch us go through the canal anyway..)

I fought my way against the wind to the front deck and joined a ‘crowd’ of bemused people who were fighting the wind to stay on the front deck.

Then we received our flags..

..and waved them at each other and at the busses and at the world in general while the boat and the busses honked their respective horns (and the locals presumably hid).

You know the strange kind of shared knowing that exists between people in trains/busses/planes with major delays? It’s very similar between people holding flags in the wind.

And then we handed the flags back and went inside again.

And that was the end of another bizarre favour.

Long live Norwegen tourbusses! (Or something?)°

I have been asked to do some bizarre things in my ~35 years on this planet, but this, this standing on a fancy cruise ship as an unkempt day passenger in strong wind and rain, waving a foreign flag at a couple of tour busses has to be close to the top…

Advice from the cyclists on the boat

  • Invest in good clothes and equipment: merino/tencel clothes (that fit and that you’ll actually wear) (quick-drying? Definitely. Don’t take cotton, but also, synthetics smell really quickly), down sleeping bag, good tent, mat with a good R rating – second hand is great
  • 3 changes of clothes, max: 1 each to cycle, chill, sleep in, (“you’re going to stink on the bike anyway, I try to not stink in bed” 😊) plus raincoat, raintrousers, jumper (“a fleece jacket might have been good too”)
  • Putting your hood under your helmet works better than a helmet cover
  • Take overshoes and wear them if necessary even though they look ridiculous. Wet shoes take a long time to dry
  • Eat. Lots, and at least every 20 km
  • Take a chain link/connector (broken chains suck)
  • Don’t take a book.
  • You probably don’t need a hammock (we really wanted to bring ours but only used it once)
  • Don’t go so fast. You’ll get farther going slower (because you won’t get so exhausted)
  • Have fun. Enjoy yourself.

They had 2 front and 2 rear bags, plus a tent across the rear bags. And frame bags. And bottle racks.

  • Food and trangia
  • Clothes
  • Sleeping stuff (mat, sleeping bag)
  • Everything else

20 minutes in Batfjord

I wasn’t sure if we’d be allowed out but I overheard someone else asking and it turned out we were 🙂

Turf offered a square just about within reach, so I headed off..

..got the square..

..and made it back within the 20 minute window 😇


Batsfjord harbour isn’t super exciting.. there are builders merchants and car parks and a row of little boats..

..but they have pretty yellow and orange poppies 🙂

20 minutes in Batfjord

I wasn’t sure if we’d be allowed out but I overheard someone else asking and it turned out we were 🙂

Turf offered a square just about within reach, so I headed off..

..got the square..

..and made it back within the 20 minute window 😇


Batsfjord harbour isn’t super exciting.. there are builders merchants and car parks and a row of little boats..

..but they have pretty yellow and orange poppies 🙂

20 minutes in Batfjord

I wasn’t sure if we’d be allowed out but I overheard someone else asking and it turned out we were 🙂

Turf offered a square just about within reach, so I headed off..

..got the square..

..and made it back within the 20 minute window 😇


Batsfjord harbour isn’t super exciting.. there are builders merchants and car parks and a row of little boats..

..but they have pretty yellow and orange poppies 🙂

Bread and sleep

So much for going shopping.

I got involved in long-distance filter cleaning and now I’m cold and tired and hungry. I found the rest of the bread in my bag as I was emptying it to go to the shop, so I’m going to eat that and forget about going shopping tonight. I’ll go tomorrow on the way to the boat.

Might be a good night to get lots of sleep, since I won’t get much if any on the boat.

🙂

Not breaking but entering

I got off the bus in the rain and headed for a sign that I assumed meant ‘hotel’ in Norwegian or Finnish but which turned out to be a garage/shop/cafe with a funny name.

Sleeping in a garage shop didn’t really appeal, so I abandoned that idea and found a dry doorway to stand and reorganise my things and put on my coat.

I’d read some reviews online before I fell asleep, and the ‘cheap’ hotels all sounded terrible. I don’t know what standards people have, but if no one has anything good to say it gives you a bad impression..

The expensive hotels had much better reviews, but also much higher prices.

I pulled up the booking.com app on my phone to see if I’d missed any on the map.

Almost at the bottom of the [admittedly short] list, there was indeed a place I hadn’t seen listed on the map. A private host, offering an apartment for about the same price as the ‘cheap’ hotels. It was the furthest away, but reasonably close to the harbour. I booked it and set off.

I looked into the cafe to see if they had a toilet, which they didn’t, and hoped I’d make it to the house, 20 minutes walk away.

On the way I stopped to take pictures anyway.. because Jess and because it was sunny and might decide to rain again later.

And then there were hills and curvy roads…and then none of the houses had numbers.

Yay.

I asked someone in a car and she first said she didn’t know which was Nr. 5, and then after driving a bit further she remembered, or figured out, that we were looking at the backs of the houses and the official fronts are on the other side, via a different road. I walked round the house and she helpfully pulled up and pointed out the clearly visible 5 (“See? That’s house Nr. 5”) before driving off.

Gee thanks.

No one answered the door when I knocked. There was no answer when I phoned either. Shortly afterwards I got a text to say they couldn’t talk right now. Like the automatic ones you can choose when the phone rings.

I sat and waited. And waited. And waited. And then I went back to the side door and checked the pictures of the apartment door in the advert. There were only pictures of the inside, but the door handle and the windows matched. The door wasn’t locked so I called inside.. no answer.

By this point I was about to explode, so I took my shoes off and went to find a toilet.

Took getting mad at the lack of toilet roll (always carry tissues ;p) to find they’d put the roll on a shelf instead of the holder.

Great hiding place 🙂

Then I went back outside and sat on their porch for an hour.

I text to say I was here, I checked the booking app to see if I was missing anything…

..and then I gave up and brought my stuff inside.

It looks like someone else was here and no one’s been to clear up in between. It’s not exactly dirty, but it’s not the way you expect rooms to be when you first arrive.


I’ve been here for an hour or so and no one from the house has arrived or written or phoned. I need to go shopping, so I’m going to take the key from the table and lock my things inside and find something to eat for dinner 🙂

I even have an oven 🙂

And a monkey for company……….


Later

Missed opportunity? 🤔

The bus stopped for 20 minutes next to a silversmith workshop.

They had some cool pieces, like these broches..

..but nothing that said, ‘welcome to this crazy world, you beautiful nephew!’ So I left without buying anything.

Maybe I should have got him something ridiculous so that in 10 years or so he can point at it and say, “look what my crazy aunt bought for me when she heard I was born..” and people can tell him that’s what crazy aunts are for…

😅

 Karasjok Hold’em

Great bus ride with a poker fanatic 🙂

I was the only passenger on the bus for most of the way to Lakselv, so I sat at the front and talked (/ listened) to the driver talk about poker, among other things.

He plays online and wins places in tournaments in other countries. I asked if he wins back the travel costs, “I see it as a hobby.. If I have a good holiday and have the chance to play, I don’t need to win. Winning is a bonus”.

He told me how to play various hands, but I’d pretty much forgotten before he’d finished telling me 🙈

My main takeaway is that you need a strategy for every kind of situation.. and you need to decide on potential strategies in advance instead of in the moment. (‘If x happens, I will do A. If y happens I will do B’)

That might be a good way of dealing with life in general too…. i.e. If I catch bus X I will go to Place A. If I miss bus X I will do Thing B instead… 🙂

Fascinating guy 🙂

It wasn’t all poker tho:

Karasjok used to get to -50°C in winter 🥶 but recently it’s only reached around -30° (“it doesn’t even get to -40 anymore”). Apparently it’s such a dry cold, and there’s no wind, so -50° doesn’t feel as cold as -20° does on the coast. You don’t need many extra clothes, you just need to make sure all your skin is covered. I’m willing to believe him in theory.. not sure I need to try it out tho. Lakselv is ~60 km away and on the coast, and can on any given day be upto 20° warmer than Karasjok in winter and 15° colder in summer. Makes sense, but is still pretty crazy..

“You’re easy to understand, and you don’t speak so fast…..but it’s hard to know where you come from because you don’t have an accent”

Norwegians know English towns based on 3 leagues of football. That seems quite intense.. When he was at school, kids watched the football games and chose their favourite players and teams.. now, parents and godparents give their kids football clothes and trikots for their Christening presents so they have almost no choice. 😂

The county is probably going to change the bus company soon (next year) so they’ll get better busses 🙂 maybe even electric. I didn’t think the bus was terrible but he said there are busses when you don’t notice how bumpy the roads are 🙂 That probably makes a huge difference if you’re driving all day.

As a side note: current electric cars can’t pull caravans 🙃

Karasjok Campsite

So cool 🙂

There are huts and chalets and wigwams 🙂

Outside the chalet…

And hot showers 🙂

With motion sensors so you don’t have to keep pressing the button
I didn’t play with it, but I think you can change the mirror lighting by poking it

And cool people to share a house/chalet with.

And the reception sold me a Norwegian strength moskito roller….so hopefully that’ll help on the islands (and in Sweden 🙂 )

Got a lift to the campsite :)

I got off the bus in Karasjok and askec the busdriver if the bus back to Lakselv would go from the same place in the morning. He assured me it would, and that he would be driving it. He was a bit confused as to why I was in Karasjok at all tho.

Legitimate question really.. I doubt many people go for hour each way diversions..

One of the other passengers heard us talking and asked me if I wanted a lift to the campsite.

Wheee 🙂 such cool people 🙂

My new plan

Get to Kirkenes (by bus)

Boat from Kirkenes to Hammerfest

Explore and sleep in Hammerfest

Boat to Risoyhamn

Explore and sleep in Risoyhamn

Boat to Bodo

Trains from Bodo to Stockholm

Pick up bike

Sleep in Stockholm (at bike lady’s house?)

Start cycling

Fog vs clear skies

The worst thing about walking in the fog is that you don’t see anything

The best thing about walking in the fog is that you don’t see anything, and can focus on just walking [fast].

The best thing about clear skies is that you can see everything.

The worst thing about clear skies is that you can see everything, and want to stop to look at it…and or take pictures of it…and it takes forever to get anywhere.


Yesterday’s walk was considerably less pleasant than today’s.. but also considerably faster… 😂🙃

Good morning world! (23.6.2022)

“It’s horrible here, I think I’ll stay” must be a phrase reserved for very tired campers 😂


Outside it’s windy, really really windy… like hold-onto-the-ground-so-you-don’t-blow-away windy, and probably around 10°C, so a lot warmer than last night, but not exactly cosy. In my tent it’s comparatively warm, in my sleeping bag it’s great 🙂 So great in fact, that getting out is a terrible idea 🙃

Except that all the other good stuff (toilets and showers and water refills and boat rides and such) lies on the other side of getting up and out (and packed up).

What a predicament 🥺

At least it’s not raining tho 🙂

Struggling and overcoming…

Just read this:

Life should be good, not easy. There is a famous Latin expression. Luctor et Emergo. It means “I struggle and emerge” or “wrestle with and overcome.” The gods, Seneca writes, “want us to be as good, as virtuous as possible, so assign to us a fortune that will make us struggle.” Without struggle, he says, “no one will know what you were capable of, not even yourself.” ‘

Ryan Holiday, email from today

Yay?

Maybe 🙂

I am capable of trudging and of accepting lifts 🙂

English lesson from the North :)

I’d forgotten about this until my alarm rang 🤦‍♀️

I have an English date with a student on Wednesday evenings, and today is Wednesday… so we had our Skype lesson from the cafe 😅

Wonders of modern technology 🙂

And maybe good that I wasn’t on a train/bus/car/whatever.

Pretty much this

You got a fast car?
I want a ticket to anywhere
Maybe we make a deal
Maybe together we can get somewhere
Any place is better*

Tracy Chapman, Fast car

* “Almost any place less wetter” would probably suit me fine..


I had a plan.. and then I ruined it.

I was going to accept the rain and the bleugh weather and sit in the cafe until it dried off, and work on the behind-the-scenes part of the blog, and catch up on posting pictures.

I almost did, too.

I packed everything I needed into the waterproofest bag and headed to the cafe….

…where I met a super interesting old cyclist from Belgium who’d cycled here from Tarifa. In two months. Crazy guy, but super interesting conversation. He’d cycled across Africa and South America and all over the place. He was fed up of the fog and the rain and had packed up early so he could head to Alta on the bus. When he asked if I really wanted to spend another night and the best part of 2 days in my tent and the cafe it sounded like a pretty dire choice. Getting the bus to Hönningsvag or the mainland (or anywhere really) sounded much more appealing.

So I went off to pack my tent. In the rain.I

And I was too slow.

I was fighting a wet tent into a bag as the bus went past.

~5 minutes later I was ready to go.

But the bus was gone.

The only bus.

(There’s only one public/non-tour bus off the Island a day).

Yay.

So I found some socks and went back to the cafe. With all my stuff.

I’m still drying off but I think it’s time to stand at the edge of the car park and hope someone will take me to somewhere south of The North.

I don’t really care where. Except I do have a lot of criteria/requests.. near a bus stop where busses actually stop, near food, near somewhere I can sleep that doesn’t cost 200€/night.

Could be fun…….

And I still haven’t done my blog stuff.

And one of the things the Cycling Guy said, while he was debating (with himself) about getting a boat from Hönningsvag instead of busses to Alta and beyond was:

“No. I decided to go to Alta so I’ll go to Alta. Sometimes it’s good to stick to stick your plan.”

Indeed.

It would seem that sometimes it is 🙂

(Leaving on tomorrow’s bus would have meant either not seeing Hönningsvag or losing another day, because the boat and bus towards Kirkenes leave in the mornings…

But at least my tent being up meant having somewhere free to sleep 🙃🙈)

Forecasting or hoping… 🤔

Making my way back to the tent.. avoiding the river/moat network

Wanna see what the forecast says?

Here you go:

The only thing I believe about this ^ is the ‘feels like’ temperature…

Last night’s forecast was great too:

It was more like the 2am prediction, but moreso 🌬️🌪️🌧️🌧️🌧️

And I don’t care what the weatherman is saying
Because the last time that I saw him he was on his knees, he was praying
And the preachers and the scientists got soaked just the same
And we wondered if we’d ever get dry again

– Frank Turner, Next Storm

On the other hand.. I consider myself super lucky to have my tent and not this guy’s..

Tent sympathy, not tent shaming

At least I can sit up in mine 😂

Good morning world! (22.6.2022)

I appear to still be here 🙂 and I still have a tent 🙂

I also appear to have a moat 😂

Got some of ‘my’ mountains back too 🙂


I’d better get dressed and see how the rest of world looks.

Don’t want to tho. It’s still raining, though not as hard, and it’s way colder than yesterday.

I think this would be a good time to have one of those nearly floor-length puffy coats that look like a sleeping bag.

Maybe in a waterproof version.

🤔

Or maybe I just need a toilet in my tent…..

Personal

“Great weather!” I peered out of my tent as my new neighbour was putting up his tent.

Look at the beautiful view!

“Yeah.. it’s my personal raincloud………..”

Not a lot you can say to that really.

(Except that he’s welcome to keep it to himself in future.. or pitch further away from my tent… 😜)